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The First Descent of the Matterhorn


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A Bibliographical Guide to the 1865 Accident and its Aftermath

By Alan Lyall

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Published by Gomer Press, Wales, 1997, 1st UK Edition, D/w, Fine.   A comprehensive analysis of the Matterhorn accident when, following the successful first ascent in 1865, four of the seven-man party, namely Michel Croz, Charles Hudson, Douglas Hadow and Lord Francis Douglas, fell to their deaths on the descent. Only Edward Whymper and the Zermatt guides Peter Taugwalder, father and son, survived.  Lyall provides biographies of the various figures involved in the climb and notes that “My object in writing this bibliographical guide to the mass of material relating to the 1865 Matterhorn accident has been twofold. Firstly, to bring together as many as possible of the contemporary documents, particularly the correspondence relating to the accident and its aftermath, to consider their implications and try to view them in their proper perspective and, secondly, to highlight and correct the erroneous and misleading statements of fact and comments that have appeared in so many of the articles and books written in the 80 years or so since the death of Edward Whymper”.  A real tour de force!  Lyall, an experienced mountaineer and lawyer, had visited Zermatt for 35 years before writing this book.

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Weight1.6 kg