The Shishapangma Expedition

Description

Published by Granada Publishing, London, 1984, 1st UK Edition, D/w, Fine.   Account of the Spring 1982 ‘Alpine Style’ Expedition to make the first ascent of the unclimbed South-West Face of Shishapangma, the 14th highest mountain in the world at 8,027 metres but the last 8,000er to be climbed as it lies entirely within Tibet, to which travel was restricted.  It was first climbed by the Chinese via the Northern Route in 1964 and was not climbed again until 1980.  The team, which included Paul Braithwaite, Roger Baxter-Jones, Elaine Brook and Nick Prescott, along with Scott and MacIntyre, spent two years struggling with bureaucracy to get to the mountain, but then, despite some personality clashes, Scott, MacIntyre and Baxter-Jones successfully complete their new route in fine Alpine Style. Placing the expedition into a historical context, Doug presents a wealth of historical detail about the region while Alex provides a unique commentary on the ‘big peak’ way of life-from the frenzied preparations to the clashes of personality, the affection, and the humor.  Less than 5 months later, Alex tragically died on Annapurna, hit by a single falling stone.  An excellent account, and Joint Winner of the 1984 Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature.