Total Alpinism

Description

Published by Granada, 1982, 1st English Edition, D/w, Fine.   The Guide Rene Desmaison’s autobiography is a significant volume, detailing his ascents of major routes including winter ascents of L’Olan (NW Face), the Central Pillar of Freney and The Shroud.  He was a controversial figure in French climbing circles and discusses, amongst other events, his involvement, with Gary Hemming and Mick Burke, in the dramatic rescue of 2 German climbers on the Dru in 1966, as well as his attempt to force a new route up the left side of the Walker Spur with Serge Gousseault, who died on the attempt, in 1971.  These events led to conflict with the Chamonix rescue establishment in the former case and to dispute and recrimination in the latter.  Desmaison’s description of the Walker Spur new route attempt is a particularly moving alpine narrative.